Bosch Router

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whats the best dewalt,bosch,hitachi,snap on ,makita?

whats the best dewalt,bosch,hitachi,snap on ,makita?I cannot choose just one brand because I use these Power Tools all for different tasks .

For a circular saw in my opinion Makita is the best.It seems to be stronger, lighter, and, user friendly.

For saw zaw I prefer dewalt simply for the price less than $100. When you get into the movable heads, you are asking for trouble.It is just another moving part to break.

For screw guns I prefer the less professional brand. Ryobi Reason I bought a reconditioned kit 4 years ago(still in service today and used all day every work) day that had an in car battery charger, which has been the most beneficial accesory for my line of work.(Remodel)

For "chop saw" or miter box I prefer dewalt Reason.It is what I started out with and I have become use to it and know it’s capabilities. Also Dewalt had the Right/left handed trigger first.

The only Hitachi tool I own is a 3/8 reversable drill. I bought it from one of my employees, but only use it for mixing grout or when my dewalt is already being used.

For belt sander .. Again I prefer a less professional grade tool…. Fire storm….. Because of the slender tip that allows you to get more into tight spots. Very inexpensive almost disposable, yet durable.
The Dewalt and Makita versions are somewhat bulky though priced comparably.

For table saw I prefer Dewalt (portable).Although.. very strong, durable, and I can easily clamp jigs or stops to the table ( unlike the delta which does not have a solid table) it is a little bulky and heavy but does a great job.I use Dewalt router regularly because of the Variable Speed adjustments that none of my other routers have.

For all my mechanical tools I prefer Craftsman.The warrete says it all. Snap on and other comparable brands have similar waretees but do not have the local Sears store for return.

The only Bosch tool I own is a jamb saw It works like a champI drive a Chevy truck but prefer Ford.. for the towing abilities.My boat has a Johnson motor but I prefer Mercury due to the parts availability.My lawn mower is a Troy built (due to retail price) though I prefer John Deere.

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A cordless drill can be an excellent tool for home improvement jobs or commercial jobs. Choose an appropriate cordless drill batteriesis very important to use it for Drills

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Flush trim router bit ? PLeAse HELP!!?

Im going to be needing a flush trim bit for a bosch laminate trimmer / palm router. There seems to be dozens of different variations. I know im better off getting one with a bearing but what else should i look for? Whats a flute and how important is the shank and diameter size?

Ken

Laminate bits do come in several varieties... and while many 'overlap' in what they are designed to do... some serve a very specific method of cutting the laminate/core.

Looking at just the basic flush trim bit, you can get one with a beveled edge, or straight edge. The beveled edge leaves a Small Angle cut back into the laminate (less hand filing). If you are just going to purchase one bit, then get a straight flush trim bit. With or without a bearing. The bearing will give you a little smoother glide over a rough edge, but you can't get into inside corners as well.

To describe a 'flute' as simply as possible - its the cutting edge. A single flute bit has one cutting edge - 2 flutes = 2 cutting edges. The more flutes you have on a bit, the smoother the cut, typically. This isn't quite so important when talking about a laminate trimming bit, as it would be, if you were talking about profile cutting for a wood edge.

By the way, when talking about getting a bit with a bearing, you can get them with the bearing at the top, or bottom.

You need to purchase a bit with the same shank size as the collet in your router. Many laminate trimmers use 1/4" shanks - get whichever your particular router needs.

The router bit diameter (for the flutes) needs to be the same size as your bearing, if all you are doing is trimming the laminate to be flush with the edge. The smaller the diameter bit you can work with, the farther into inside corners you can get. If all you have are outside corners, its not a concern.

Here are some links you may find helpful -
A typical laminate trimming bit, with bearing - http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=18719&TabSelect=Details
At this link, you can see the usual 'bearing' bits at the top, and the second and third bits shown are what are normally used by cabinet makers - solid carbide bits, 1/4" shank, 1/4" diameter, these fit practically all laminate trimmers, and make quick work of trimming it off. These do not have a bearing, and due to their smaller size, they can get into inside corners really well. The second image is the standard flush bit, and the third is with a 7 degree bevel.

http://www.carbideprocessors.com/level2store/whiteside/laminate_trim.htm

You can usually find either type of bit anywhere laminate supplies are sold, and its not too difficult to find them wherever router bits in general are sold.

Now, just to throw one more type of bit at you -- shops with large routers, like an overhead router, or CNC router, will often use 'spiral' cut solid carbide bits. These come in single or double spiral, and in various dimensions. The advantage of a spiral bit, is that the cutting edge actually forces the cut to shear down into the laminate, or veneer surface. That means you don't get any chipping, or tear out. A double spiral bit, has cutting shears in both directions for materials that are laminated, or veneered, on both sides. These bits usually come in only 1/2" shanks, and will cost upwards of $100 each. They save labor though, and can be resharpened many times.

Don't forget the bearing lubricant, if you buy a bearing bit -- and keep it clean to prevent burning.

Hope this helped.

Have Fun

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