Electric Belt Sander

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Tools And Brushes For Wood Polishing

A lot of edge tools will not be necessary, but for good-quality work they must be sharp. You will need a block plane, preferably with an adjustable mouth, and, perhaps most important in finishing, a cabinet scraper.

Sanding
Sanding blocks made from cork or rubber can be bought, or you can stick a piece of felt or rubber to a block of wood. The block should be big enough to wrap a quarter-sheet of standard-sized abrasive paper around. Apply pumice and rottenstone with a felt-based block.

Sticks and dowels are useful. Wrap the abrasive round ordinary round-section pieces for mouldings, or profile your own for unusual shapes.

Machines can do some of the hard work. Disc Sanders for electric drills leave nasty circular scratches. Do not touch them. Belt Sanders are heavy, powerful, expen¬sive machines for removing the really rough stuff. A moment's inattention and you will find you have gone right through a veneer or dug a trench in the wood. Rub the (expensive) belts with a wire brush to unclog them. Orbital and finishing sanders are the best bet.

Strip-ping
Wire (steel) wool is the standard stripping material, and you will also need putty and decorators' filling- and scraping-knives (a hook scraper is efficient but easily scars the surface).

A wire brush will remove every bit of waste from the grain; a small brass shoe-cleaning brush, a nailbrush, and a toothbrush will all be needed at times.

Pointed dowels and toothpicks will all come in useful for carvings and mouldings.

Hot-air strippers make more sense than blowtorches for furniture, but be very gentle. They are best for paint on flat surfaces, and useless for synthetic lacquers. Never use heat to strip veneers.

Brushes
For varnish (which here includes polyurethanes) buy a best-quality 35-50mm (l-1/2-2in.) brush and never use it for anything else. Real bristle is always better than nylon for a good finish. You need full bristles, slightly tapered, with some flagged tips to control the flow. In cheap brushes, the two rows of bristles are set too wide apart to hold the liquid and let it flow well.

Fine artist's brushes will be necessary for touching in colours; bear-, sable- or squirrel-hair 'mops' for shellac in awkward corners and a 'grass' or nylon scrubbing brush for bleaches. The finest is a 'dulling' brush (furniture rubbing brush), for laying pumice powder on to a bright finish.

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You might also want to learn how to choose a hard floor covering for your house and also working on roofs require proper attention and care. Learn how to avoid an accident when repairing roofs

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How do electric sanders work? (as in the inside workings etc?)?

Not asking how to sand wood! Or how they sand wood!

I want to know how the transmission system from motor to sanding pad works. Could anyone point me in the direction of some drawings of the internal works? Mainly interested in random orbit sanders and those triangular palm sanders rather than belt sanders.

Thanks!

The main mechanism of the kind of sanders you mention is called an eccentric cam. Basically eccentric means it rotates with its center of gravity offset from the axis of rotation. Although I can't say I know for sure just how the design of any particular sander goes, I'm pretty confident that what happens is that an eccentric cam attached to a motor rotates inside a cylindrical enclosure which is part of the pad. The cam pushes on one side of the cylindrical enclosure and shifts to other sides as the rotor turns. The pad is prevented from rotating by its mounting so it ends up vibrating in an orbital fashion which maintaining its orientation.

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